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A narrow cobbled street lined with wooden shopfronts, their tables and walls covered in copper trays, pots and coffee sets.

04 Copper / Made here

The street named for a kettle

A Sarajevo coffee set is one small part of a trade that once supplied the house. The makers’ names help bring the rest into view.

The pattern is marked out on the tray and the middle is already struck. Tap or drag across the copper to hammer in the rest.

A džezva is an easy thing to recognise in a photograph of Sarajevo. The less familiar objects take more explanation. What was an ibrik for? Why does a sahan have that shape? What belongs on a tray, and what was meant to stand in a room?

The metalware collection of Sarajevo’s Bošnjački institut offers a much larger vocabulary than the souvenir coffee set. Its holdings include pitchers, serving dishes, braziers, trays and coffee vessels. Copper served the routines of cooking, carrying water, serving food and furnishing a home. The collection also contains objects brought from Turkey, Persia, the wider Middle East and the Maghreb, including pieces acquired on pilgrimage. Similar needs produced different shapes and decoration.

The old trade can still be read in the name Kazandžiluk. The street takes its name from the kazandžije, makers associated with the kazan, a large kettle or cauldron. At the eastern side of Baščaršija, the craft developed into the production of vessels for domestic life as well as larger commissions. A workshop’s usefulness was measured in things people could put to work.

The street is protected as part of the ensemble of Kazandžiluk, Male Daire and Luledžina, designated by Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Commission to Preserve National Monuments in July 2009. A protected address, though, is not the same thing as a working trade. The buildings need care; the workshops need people who can make things and customers who want them.

Protection of the street tells only part of the story. Individual workshops have their own accounts of how the work continued. At Kazandžiluk 29, the Hidić family identifies Mehmed Hidić as its first generation and Kenan Hidić as its fourth. Its published history dates the business to 1936. Alongside traditional techniques, the workshop describes commissioned pieces and copper combined with silver and gold. This is the family’s own account. It gives the history an identifiable source, though it cannot establish where every object now sold on the street was made.

Further along the same street, Sakib Baščaušević’s workshop describes a range extending from dishes and coffee sets to vases and decorative boxes. Its website distinguishes copper pieces with tin, silver or gold plating and says that its products carry an identifying mark.

Those distinctions give a buyer something more useful to ask about than whether an object is simply “authentic”. Who shaped it? Who decorated it? What is the finish? Is this particular piece intended to be used, or displayed? Ask the maker how to care for it and which uses it was made for. A decorative surface and a food-contact surface are different questions; a general description of the craft cannot answer them for every object in a shop.

There is also pleasure in looking before deciding to buy. Compare the outline of a pitcher with the spread of a tray. Look at where decoration is concentrated and where the metal is left quiet. The museum collection makes the relationship between form and purpose especially clear. Back among the workshops, a name or maker’s mark gives you a way to connect an object with the person responsible for it.

The coffee set has become such a familiar shorthand for Sarajevo that it can obscure the rest of this work. A brazier, a water pitcher and a serving dish belong to different parts of a household’s day. Kazandžiluk supplied those needs long before its name became a destination. That everyday usefulness deserves a place beside the ornament.

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