Standfirst
In Sarajevo, Mostar, and towns across Bosnia and Herzegovina, the granap — the small, privately owned corner shop — is more than a place to buy bread. It is a hub of conversation, a keeper of neighbourhood history, and often a lifeline for those who live nearby. We visit three still-open granaps and meet the people who give them life.
The quick answer: what is a granap?
A granap is a small, family-run shop, usually no larger than 20 square metres. It stocks daily essentials — fresh bread, dairy, coffee, cigarettes, soft drinks, seasonal fruit, and basic toiletries. More importantly, it functions as a meeting place where locals exchange news, share coffee, and watch out for each other.
Granaps we visited in 2025
Granap “Kod Senada”, Mejtaš, Sarajevo
This shop has been open since 1988. Owner Senad, 64, knows every regular by name. “If I do not see someone for a few days, I call to check they are alright,” he says, leaning on the counter stacked with loaves from a nearby bakery. A small table near the fridge serves as the “council seat” for three pensioners who arrive every day at 10:00 sharp for coffee and a cigarette.
Granap “Zvijezda”, Bulevar, Mostar
Run by mother-and-daughter team Amira and Selma, this granap has adapted by adding a small espresso machine and selling local craft beer alongside standard goods. Selma says, “Our customers like the new beers, but they still buy their favourite Drina cigarettes.” She notes that the busiest time is early evening when nearby apartment blocks empty out for walks.
Granap “Kod Mire”, Dobrinja, Sarajevo
Mira has run her shop for 27 years. In winter, she keeps a spare stool behind the counter for children waiting to be picked up from after-school activities. “We know whose child belongs to who,” she says. “This is how it has always been.”
The unspoken code of regulars
In all three shops, greetings are communal. A customer entering says dobar dan to everyone inside, not just the owner. Regulars have “their” spots — one near the counter, another by the bread shelves. Gossip moves quickly: a neighbour’s birthday, a new supermarket opening nearby, or news of a local football match.
Changes and challenges
- Competition: Supermarkets with longer hours and lower prices are drawing away younger shoppers.
- Urban redevelopment: In Sarajevo’s centre, rising rents have forced some granaps to close.
- Generational shifts: Few young people want to take over when the current owners retire.
Yet adaptation is happening. Senad has started accepting card payments. Mira now sells small batches of local honey from a cousin’s farm. Amira and Selma hold an annual “coffee day” in December where customers drink for free.
Safety and access
Season: Open year-round. Accessibility: Narrow entrances and occasional steps limit access for wheelchairs and prams. Safety: Safe during operating hours. Typical hours are 07:00 to 22:00, but some urban granaps close earlier on Sundays. Mobile coverage: Reliable in all visited locations. Emergency number: 112.
Why you should visit a granap
- To experience a community hub where you will be welcomed by name on your second visit
- To hear the rhythm of neighbourhood conversation in real time
- To support small businesses that anchor Bosnia and Herzegovina’s urban and rural life
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